How is Winter in Chile?

by Rob W. on July 12, 2010 · 1 comment

Panoramic view from the El Colorado skifield near Santiago in the Andes Mountains. Rob with snowboard.

A typical winter in Santiago
Winter in Santiago can be summed up in one word, ColdGreySmog (Ok, not one word). Before I came to Chile I was told that Santiago was next to some mountains that are over 5000m (13000+feet) high. Well, I didn’t see the mountains for the first two weeks and I started to think that they had lied to me. The truth was that because of the dense smog in the center of the city, I just couldn’t see them. Then, one morning after a night of rain, I was dazzled by the white sheen from the snow on HUGE IMPOSING mountains… that was until around midday where the smog started coming back and blurring the spectacular view again. Despite the smog, Santiago is a great place to be in winter due to its close proximity to ski fields.

Does it get cold in Santiago?
Well, it does get chilly in winter but nothing a coat won’t fix. In the morning before the sun comes up, it may float around 0ºC (32ºF) and when it goes into the minuses, it usually gets mentioned in the newspapers. The afternoons hover around 10ºC (50ºF) unless there is a cold blast coming up from Antartica.

Does it snow in Santiago?
Since I have been living in the capital city (since 1997), it has only snowed twice, and by snow I mean a light dusting of white (not enough to break out the skis and thermal boots). Once was around 9pm on a very cold night (funnily we were just coming back from the airport having been in much warmer Antofogasta and wondered what that funny rain stuff was on the windscreen) and the other time was for about a quarter of an hour one afternoon. So, basically it doesn’t snow in Santiago in winter unless it’s a freak event.

Winter outside of Santiago
In general it rains a lot in the South of Chile in winter. Further down south in Punta Arenas, not only will the constant wind bring a chill to your bones, but you won’t be able to see it due to only a few hours of daylight (what do you mean you can’t see wind? You must have missed that day at school when they were teaching it). Up in the north of Chile you can expect warmer climates without rain in winter (not counting the villages up in the hills that still freeze their butts off like the rest of us). It may be nice during the day though expect it to be incredibly cold at night, especially at higher altitudes like San Pedro de Atacama.

Is there Central Heating?
I’ve heard of that… elsewhere. The general rule of thumb is that houses are not insulated nor have central heating here in Chile. If you are an English teacher renting an apartment in Providencia or downtown (that’s all your teacher salary can usually afford) expect to feel the cold. Nice new houses should have central heating as do new apartments.
When I lived in a poorer part of Santiago, the smell of kerosene heaters hung in the air and I remember many a time having to go out and brave the cold to fill up a plastic container at a petrol station to get my one going. In case you don’t know, they smell terrible when you turn them off and you have to leave them outside.

Houses in Santiago are not allowed to light fires for heating due to the already difficult contamination in winter. However, they are permitted, and quite common, in the South of Chile though in larger cities like Temuco there is now a smoky haze blanketing the city in the colder months (though I admit I love the smell of burning wood).

Many people have gas heaters (less smelly than kerosene ones) and regularly get 15kg cylinders of gas delivered to their house.

How can I keep warm?
Try jumping up and down lots and lots! No, seriously try it! ;)

How do you find Chilean winters? Different from back home?
How do you keep warm in Chile?

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